2006 WAYNE COUNTY FAIR DEMOLITION DERBY
WAYNE COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS – CORYDON, IOWA-6:00 P.M.
Derby Dates are: Saturday, May 27th, Sunday, July 30th, & Saturday, September 23rd
Inspection starts at 12 noon and ends promptly at 5:00 p.m.
Entry Fee: $35.00 for one driver and one mechanic. Pit Pass - $15.00
An 80’s and Newer Class has been added this year!!
General Rules
- Any American made sedan or station wagon may be ran. No 73 or older Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, etc.
- Driver must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14-17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license.
- Driver must wear seat belt, helmet, and some form of eye protection.
- No intentional driver’s door hits. If does happen and you will be dq’ed if we feel it was intentional. Do not use your door as a shield either as you will be disqualified for that also.
- You will be given 30 seconds for an aggressive hit and 60 seconds for a restart or if you are hung up.
- No sandbagging or holding.
- If you have 2 fires of any kind that need extinguishers to put it out, you will be disqualified.
- All drivers and pit crew members must attend the drivers meeting
- Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
- No Alcohol in the pits. If any driver or crewmember is caught with alcohol their car will be disqualified and removed from the grounds.
- Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $40 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest.
- If you arrive after 3 p.m. a late fee of $50 will be charged. If you arrive after 4 p.m. you will forfeit your entry fee. *This is for the Davenport shows only! This does not apply to the Wayne County Derbies.
- Any questions call first. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it.
- Judges decisions are final.
- Car Preparation
- All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
- All glass, plastic, chrome, etc. must be removed before arriving at the derby.
- All decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Use motor and tranny of choice but must be in stock location. May weld or chain the motor in place but it can not be used to strengthen the frame. If we feel that it does you will cut it.
- Use rear end of choice but must be 5 lug. Welding the rear end is allowed.
- Radiator must be in stock location.
- Brakes must be workable and deemed safe.
- Trailer hitches and any extra bracing must be removed.
- A-arms and ball joints must remain stock.
- Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. NO GAS CANS. Plastic gas tanks must be covered with a metal shield. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car.
- Tires no bigger than 15 inch. No split rims or studded tires. Valve stem protectors are ok.
- Transmission coolers are allowed but must be safe.
- Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard and must be properly secured and covered.
- Number must be on both doors and on top of your roof in visible colors.
- Car Building
- DO NOT weld on frames or frame seams anywhere except your bumpers. ONLY A-arm forward may be welded on top frame seam. All doors maybe welded solid using only 3/8” cold rolled filler, or 3” flat strap. Exterior only may be welded. NO inner seam welding anywhere!! Trunks/tailgates may be welded solid but must have at least a 12-inch square cut in them. No homemade body seams.
- If you do not weld your doors, trunk, or tailgate you can chain them with 3/8 chain or less and will be allowed 2 chains per seam or you may wire it with #9 wire up to 3 strands in two spots per seam.
- A bar behind the seat is mandatory. You may also run a roll loop that must be welded or bolted to the back bar or floor pan. Can not be welded or bolted to, through, or around the frame. The back bar and roll bar can only be 12 inches behind the seat. You may also have a bar across your dash. You may connect the two bars. No kickers from any of the bars. You may weld a plate on the outside of the driver’s door only but can not exceed 6 inches past each seam.
- Bumpers are interchangeable but must be a car bumper, no truck bumpers. No homemade bumpers or brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock tower. No adding any extra metal anywhere on the bumpers, shocks, or towers. No welding on bumpers except to weld the shocks or brackets. Weld them on good we don’t want them to come off. You may run in two spots #9 wire with 3 strands from either the radiator support or hood (if you go to your hood do it after inspection).
- Rear bumper may have 2 straps from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper not to the frame. Straps can be up to 4” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick.
- Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out for fires. Any holes cut in hood maybe bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolt with up to 4 bolts per hole. You are allowed 8 hood bolts and must have at least 4. You may have up to ¾” all thread from hood down to frame but it must pass through a body mount hole. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material. Hold bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood plates can not exceed 5x5x1/2” Hood must be open for inspection, this means you can NOT weld your hood down. May run #9 wire in two spots with 3 strands from bumper to radiator support or hood(if you go to your hood do it after inspection).
- Trunk/tailgate must be in stock location. Minimal folding or pre-bending of trunk lids or fenders. No tucking of wagons or sedan trunks. You may run two ¾” all thread from trunk lid to frame but must go through body mount hold and have a spacer between the body and frame.
- Body mounts can be replaced with ¾” bolts and the body mounts can be replaced with steel washers but must be 1-1/4” thickness and have the same diameter. You may add two bolts but they must go through a hole in the frame. May weld the spacers to the body but not the frame. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” thick washer on top. Radiator support mounts can be removed and sucked down solid.
- Rust holes may be patched with sheet metal only. Weld only 2 inches past the rust hole. You may also use self tapping screws to screw a piece in over the rust but this is the only place self tapping screws may be used on the car.
- Tie rod ends and rear control arms may be strengthened but must be workable.
- Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock. You may add one extra leaf spring as long as the main but it may not be wrapped to form a double main. Leaf springs must stagger down from longest to smallest. 3 clamps are allowed per side. Homemade clamps may not exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs. You may bolt or wire your coils in to prevent them from falling out. You may loop wire or chain from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire (4strands max.) or 3/8” chain may be used. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail in two spots behind the rear end.
- You will be allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire in each window opening and may go through the frame. Hardtop cars can weld a strap at the doorpost.
- May alter steering column.
- You may cut out wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders maybe bolted or welded back together but not both. If you bolt them you may bolt them with 5 3/8” bolts or less.
- Must have at least 1 windshield bar in the front windshield for safety purposes.
80/Newer Building
1. 80/Newer class will be open to any 80/newer car only.
2. Come prepared to run heats. If we have enough cars we will. Same rules for building and preparation as read above.
Rules for Compact Building
- General Rules and Car Preparation also apply to compacts.
- Wheelbase is 107 inches or less with a 4 or 6 cylinder motor.
- Doors, trunk lids, and hatch lids maybe welded solid only on the outside. No inner seam welding.
- No welding on frame except bumpers.
- If you do not weld your doors, trunk lid, or hatch you may use #9 wire or 3/8 chain in two spots per seam.
- A bar behind the seat is mandatory. You may also run a roll loop that must be welded or bolted to the back bar or the floor pan. Can not be welded or bolted to, through, or around the frame. The back bar and roll bar can only be 12 inches behind the seat. You may also have a bar across your dash. You may connect the two bars on the driver’s side only. No kickers from any of the bars. You may weld a plate on the outside of the driver’s door only but can not exceed 6 inches past each seam.
- Bumpers are interchangeable. No homemade bumpers or brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock tower. NO adding any extra metal anywhere on the bumpers, shocks, or towers. No welding on bumpers except to weld the shocks or brackets. Weld them on good we do not want them to come off.
- Hood must have at least a 12-inch hole cut in case of a fire. Hole may be bolted back together with up to 4 3/8” bolts or less. Hood must be open for inspection. May have up to 8 hood bolts, but must have at least 4. Plates for hood may not be larger than 5x5x1/4”. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. May replace radiator support bolt with ¾” or less all-thread and may go to the hood. May run #9 wire from radiator support to bumper in two spots (not to hood).
- Suspension must be stock. Leaf springs must be stock and stagger down from longest to shortest. May have up to 3 clamps per side and they can not exceed 2x4x1/4”. Spacers may be put in sagging coil springs. You may have chain (3/8” or less) or #9 wire (4strands max.) that goes around the rear frame in two spots.
- Must have a windshield bar in front windshield for safety purposes.
- Again original gas tanks can not be used. We want everyone safe.
- Please be prepared to run heats. If we get to many compact cars we will run heats.
Main stock event pays first-$700, second-$500, and third $300. Each individual heat pays at least two place of $50 with trophy. Consolation heats pay at least two places of $50 each. No trophies awarded. Compact Cars pay first-$350, second-$200, & third-$150 all with trophies. If numbers allow, be prepared to run two heats. Powder Puff (women drivers) one feature only, pays first-$250, second-$150, & third-$100 all with trophies. First and Second Place winners have the option to run in the main feature, but will forfeit prize money from powder puff winnings. The 80’s and Newer prize money will be 100% of entry fees for that class prorated for first, second and third place plus trophies. We have added the Mad Dog Award (hardest hitting car through derby). A trophy will be awarded.
It is impossible to answer all questions. Judges decisions will be based on rules, with safety and structural consideration. All decisions of the officials will be final!!
For general questions call Steve Terlouw @ 641-831-4833
For questions on the rules call Jef Ruter @ 641-541-4245
For copies of rules call Cheryl @ 641-873-4278
Any unsportsman like conduct of drivers or pit crew will result in disqualification and loss of any and all prize money.
THE WAYNE COUNTY FAIR OR ANYONE ASSOCIATED WITH THE FAIR IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OCCURRED DURING AN EVENT.
.